Tom Mortimer, Aubichon & Le Cadeau: A Winemaker Designated Vineyard

Tom Mortimer purchased in 1996 28 acres of never-before-cultivated land in the Chehalem Mountains AVA in Willamette Valley, Oregon. Tom has an incredible vision, as you as see by his before and after pictures. The vineyard sits atop the southern tip of the Parrett Mountains at high elevations, 610’ – 725’.

Surrounded by forest on all 4 sides, birds are the main pest disposed of by netting the entire vineyard, 4 air cannons, and 5 electronic squeaker boxes so loud “if we had neighbors they would be very upset.” Vines are planted on 16 acres of very thin rocky topsoil with a tough layer of volcanic basalt subsoil (think driveway pavement in color and texture).

Aubichon is a collaboration between Tom and his winemaker and business partner, Jim Sanders.  Jim started his winemaking career at Beaux Freres where he learned from his friend and mentor, Mike Etzel. Jim is very detailed. He has his nose in every barrel constantly watching, tasting, and tweaking. Aubichon named from a colorful French Canadian trapper who worked for the Hudson Bay Company named Jean Baptiste Aubichon. He was instrumental in early Oregon politics.  “French meets Oregon” is the philosophy.

Aubichon on average contains 25-50% Le Cadeau estate fruit, the rest brought in from Dundee Hills. Farmer and vineyard manager Buddy Beck keeps the consistency. Not only does is he the vineyard manager for Le Cadeau, any fruit Tom brings in is farmed by Buddy. Buddy completed his Masters of Agriculture in Horticulture from Oregon State University and has worked with Dundee Wine Company (Argyle) and Domaine Drouhin Oregon before starting his own vineyard management company covering 285 acres of premium Pinot Noir.

Aubichon 2011
75% Dundee Hills, 25% Le Cadeau. According to Tom, the Dundee Hills fruit from across the valley brings “bright red cherry, and softer tones”. 25% new oak. 500 cases made at most, usually 350-400 cases.

Medium rudy color. Aromas of red cherry, earth, ash, and eucalyptus. Very well-balanced wine, medium across the palate.  12.8%.

Aubichon Reserve
50% Dundee Hills, 50% Le Cadeau.  50-60% new oak.  200-300 cases typically made each year.  “All the fruit from different vineyards are fermented separately with the best combination of barrels go into the Reserve. Newer barrels are more showy and nicer, and frequently new barrels end up in the Reserve”.

Medium+ ruby color. Red lending to some black cherry with smoke, ash, and cedar. Shows more body but still medium across the palate with spicier tannins. Red and black cherry on the nose with tobacco leaf and cedar.  13.1%

The Le Cadeau line is 100% estate fruit from several different cuvee’s within the 16 acres of Pinot Noir planted with 14 different clones. Tom describes his vineyard a “winemaker designated vineyard” not a “vineyard designated winery”. It’s a much more European model, all about the dirt. Several different winemakers made each cuvee but Tom is still very much involved. He choses harvest times, selection of clones, and which parcels that go into each cuvee. Oak is all French cooperage.

Le Cadeau Cote Est

Comes from the greener, more lush area of the vineyard.  590’ in elevation.  667 clones heavily used with some 115 and 114, occasionally a splash of Pomerol.  Steve Ryan is the winemaker here, the original winemaker for Martinelli. He is now focused on biodynamic winemaking in Hopland, CA.

Pale ruby color.  Red cherry and that typical Willamette earthiness.  Medium – body and ripe red cherry on the medium palate.  13.1%.

Le Cadeau Equinose

720’ in elevation in the cooler, east side of the vineyard.  Heavily 115 clone with splits of 667 and 777.  Aubichon’s Jim Sanders is the winemaker here.

Pale ruby color.  Strong ash and smoke aroma with red cherry, eucalyptus and cedar.  Elevated acidity (med+) with soft polished medium tannins.  Complexed on the palate with red and black fruits, earth, dirt, ash, cedar, and leafiness. 13.1%.

Le Cadeau “Red Label”

Red Label is used by Tom to balance the line in quantity or quality.  For example, in 2009 there was a higher than average crop level.  The production level for Equinose was stable so lesser barrels went into Red Label.  Bottles were sold at a discount to allow an entry into the understanding of Le Cadeau.  In 2010, Red Label was made from Cote Est fruit.  It was a cool year so the ripest and best barrels went into Cote Est.

Pale ruby color.  Aromas of ripe red cherry, slight smoke, and menthol.  Less complexity but nice texture on the palate.  Medium + length.